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Here we'll list SAFTY AND TECHNACAL TIPS, so check back often to stay up to date.

Handling Curves - A better Line

By James R. Davis

Taking curves is rather a personal choice in terms of selection of entry and exit points as well as speed, it seems to me.

For example, the typical advice I have heard from others is to chose an entry point that allows you to make the curve using the smoothest line thru it so that you always have the least lean demand. This, of course, gives you the most ability to compensate your path through the curve should you find a need to do so. It also means that you hit the apex of the curve at about its middle. That is, you enter from the outside edge of the curve, then move towards the inside until you reach its apex, then continue from there outwards until you are once again at the outside of the curve just as you exit it.

I, on the other hand, do not normally do this. I prefer to delay my entry into the curve. That is, I stay to the outside edge well past the normal entry point, then turn much more sharply into it and hit the inside much beyond the normal apex. This gives me two significant (to me) advantages over the 'smoothest' course:

 
bullet I get the lean that I enjoy (read: crave!) in the beginning of the curve where I have seen all that I need to see in terms of potential trouble.

bullet When I exit the turn I am traveling at a much reduced angle relative to the path of the road. That is, since I am closer to the end of the curve when I reach the inside than is the normal apex, I have fewer degrees of the arc left to go before I am again going in a straight line. Said differently, if the road changes directions by a matter of 90 degrees through a curve, no matter what path you select through it you will have totaled 90 degrees when you are out of it. Since I turn more into the curve at my delayed entry point, I have less left to go to complete the turn when I am near the exit.

This last advantage is of profound importance, in my opinion. This gives me far more ability to handle unexpected problems as I get closer to the end of the curve. For example, what if it turns out to be a decreasing radius curve after all, or if there is gravel in the road that was not visible at its entry?

By the way, when I said that 'I stay to the outside edge' above I in no way meant to imply that I get close to the line. Far too many people seem to think that they have performed a safe maneuver thru a curve so long as their wheels do not touch or cross the (center) line. WRONG! If any part of your motorcycle crosses that line, including just a grip, you are in the path of oncoming traffic, and are in THEIR lane.

In any event, I TRY to overshoot my entry to a curve. Then I aggressively push-steer into it, and delay reaching the inside of the curve well past its apex. This also, incidentally, allows me to start an aggressive roll-on of my throttle sooner than when I am at the inside of the curve which gives me a better handling bike through the majority of it. I should add that this delayed entry approach requires that you get in the habit of not entering the curve too fast. Further, the right approach speed is one which requires NO BRAKING at entry.

[You should use MODEST throttle roll-on all the way through any curve. The 'roll-on point' that is shown in the graphic is where you can go after a higher exit speed if you happen to be aggressive with your bike.]

If you find that you cross the outside line, ever, then it is time to reassess what you are doing. Approaching the curve too fast? Insufficient confidence to aggressively push-steer when you need to? Insufficient experience to pick a good line? Lack of respect for the laws of chance (one of those times a 4-wheeler will have two of them across the line)? Acting like riding with friends is a competitive sport? Whatever it is, if you ever cross that center line you are riding above your abilities (and everyone around you will know it) and you need to change something soonest. Otherwise, make sure your relatives know your intentions relative to the donation of your organs.

This method is just my preference, after all, and it seems to me is generally safer than the 'smoothest line' method usually described.


Peer Pressure Is Easy - You Aren't

By James R. Davis

All experienced group riders know that each individual in the group is responsible for their own safety. They know that in every group, one of them has the least experience or skill/control. Generally, they know that the group should ride to the skills of the least common denominator - the least experienced, or least skilled/controlled.

But sometimes you join a group for a ride and many if not all of them are strangers. Sometimes a new member joins your group and you have no idea what their skill level or experience might be. This should be a serious concern to the lead bike (often called the Road Captain - though not necessarily so.)

Since it's up to the lead bike to set the pace, how can that be done without knowing what the least common denominator is? Clearly this is an argument for a pre-ride meeting and some questions designed to find out as much as you can about who you are riding with.

But realities are such that even if you try to find out who has the least experience or least skill/control, the odds are that you will have trouble doing so. People have 'face', after all. People are reluctant to be seen as the weakest of the group. Worse, and we have seen tragic results of this recently, some people honestly believe they have better skills/control than they really do and are quite convincing about it with others.

From a lead bike point of view, a solution is readily at hand - always place a new member of the group in the last right-track position (sometimes called the 'slot') in front of the drag bike and have the drag bike observe how that person actually rides. Once the drag bike advises the lead bike that the new person demonstrates adequate skill/control then that person is freed to ride anywhere they want to in the group. Until everybody in the group is at least seen to have reasonable skills/control while riding with the group, the lead bike has no business pushing any limits.

But the heading of this message regards peer pressure, and I would like to talk briefly about group dynamics that are dangerous precisely because of peer pressure. Even assuming that everyone in a group is well known to each other, there is still a least experienced, least skilled/controlled person there. That person usually feels that he/she has very little choice but to try to 'keep up', to try to not hold the rest of the group back. If nothing else, they often think that 'stretching' themselves is a learning experience.

And while it is definitely a learning experience, if you survive it, 'keeping up', or not holding the rest of the group back should NOT be part of the equation!! A brave person will acknowledge their weaknesses and not push the envelope aggressively, even if it means that the rest of the group will recognize those weaknesses. A smart person believes absolutely that THEY are responsible for their own ride/safety - and not incidentally, in not being a potential hazard to anyone else. These people ignore peer pressure to the point that they might not fit into a particular group - and that's just fine for all concerned!

But peer pressure is NOT the real danger - there is always peer pressure (sometimes thoughtless, sometimes just good natured competition, sometimes no more than shared courtesy.) It is YOUR OWN PERSONAL pressure to perform that can be dangerous. I call that your 'head'.

What I'm getting at is mental 'rightness' - being ready and prepared to do what you are about to do, and knowing it.

If your head is not 'right', STOP and get it 'right' before you go another two feet on your motorcycle!!!!

After more than 30 years of riding motorcycles there are times when I simply feel that I cannot safely do something that I have done a thousand times before - sometimes the most trivial of things. For example, a few years ago I was on a tour to Tulsa, Oklahoma and our group had just finished a pit stop and were on our way back onto the road. We were on a parking lot that had a driveway with a relatively severe dip in it as it joined the main road where we then had to make a hard right turn to get underway. All the bikes ahead of me did just fine with that dip. But when it was my turn to negotiate that driveway I decided that my head was not 'right' and stopped my bike. I radioed to the lead bike that I would catch up in a moment, nothing was wrong. One minute later my head was 'right', confidence restored, and I took off and joined the group. Trivial embarrassment is nothing compared to an accident.

There is no doubt in my mind at all (NOW) that I could have made that exit from the parking lot without a problem. But this is one experienced rider that is not ashamed to say that when my head is 'wrong', I stop and wait until it gets 'right'.

Peer pressure is easy - you aren't.

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Motorcycle Safety Tips

Whenever you ride always wear your proper riding gear which includes a helmet (DOT approved or better), eye protection (face shield, goggles or shatter resistant full coverage glasses), long sleeved shirt or jacket, full fingered gloves, long pants (denim or leather), and over the ankle boots or sturdy shoes with non skid soles.  You'll be more comfortable, safer and ultimately enjoy riding even more.

At night, be careful not to override your motorcycle's headlight.  And take extra care to be seen by other drivers by wearing reflective clothing and using reflective tape and decals.

In addition to the pre-ride inspection you should know how to do minor maintenance and service on your motorcycle, especially important on long rides and trips.  Be sure to read your owner's manual and follow the directions.

When you brake, use both brakes together.  Generally speaking, when conditions are good, the front brake accounts for as much as 2/3 of the bike's stopping power.  How much brake pressure to use depends on your abilities, you bike's capabilities, and the environment.

Slow down before going into a curve.  Look through the curve and gently accelerate as you enter and drive through the curve.  This gentle acceleration creates stability but cannot be accomplished without the proper braking prior to entering the curve.

Mud, sand, water and other foreign debris on the road take special handling.  Before reaching a slippery surface, slow down and avoid directional or speed changes as you ride through the hazard.

Remember that the first few minutes of a rain storm are the most dangerous as the water mixes with the oil and fluids on the roadway.  Avoid riding during this time, if possible.  If you must ride try to ride in the tracks of the other vehicles in front of you as they force away the water and oils.

Standing on the pegs can help you keep control of your cycle when riding over obstacles or rough surfaces.  Keep your knees and elbows bent, look past the hazard in the direction you want to go and maintain a steady speed.

Always plan ahead - you never know what kind of problems may be coming up.  Know what you'll have to do if you suddenly skid, have a blowout, or loose clutch or throttle control.

Riding with a passenger makes balance and control of your bike a great challenge.  Make sure your passenger is wearing all of the proper riding gear, knows where and how to sit, where to put their feet and hands and how to lean through turns.  Tell them to look over your shoulder in the direction of the turn.  Remember that the passenger is "your" responsibility and should be properly educated, prepared and ready to ride.

Never ride if you have consumed any drugs, alcohol, prescription, or otherwise.  Your best weapon on the bike, your judgment, becomes impaired and your ability to reaction time is slowed.

When you carry loads, be sure to fasten them securely to the motorcycle and keep the heavier objects low and towards the center of gravity of the bike.  Never secure loads where they will affect your steering, handling, or site of the road ahead.


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